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Cloth&Fashion
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Wednesday, 11 September 2013
Tuesday, 20 August 2013
Modern hanbok
The hanbok is the item of clothing that completely and harmoniously shows Korea’s beauty. It has the meaning of bringing good luck and dispelling anger, and at every important event in your life you should wear this vital part of our cultural inheritance. In order to beautifully wear the hanbok, of course you need to the undershirt, petticoat, long skirt, and top and to properly wear them, but as times change the hanbok is become old-fashioned and rustic in young people’s eyes. However, the hanbok is currently taking a big step in becoming all Koreans’ beautiful clothing again by the entrance on the market of a new brand which has developed a fusion style of traditional hanbok and long skirts that will appeal to everyone from the young generation to globalized people.(By Ian)
How to wear the hanbok
Women's Hanbok
Steps to wear women's Hanbok
1. Wear the underpants, socks and underskirt. (without brassiere or wear thin brassiere)
2. Wear the skirt. At this time, place the hem of the skirt on your left side. And, pull the hem of the skirt to the front of you.
3. Wear the top(Jeogori). At this time, pull the top(Jeogori) to front of you to prevent the loose knot.
4. Tie a coat string.
- one string is long, and other string is short.
- left hand hold long string, and right hand hold short string.
- cross the strings, short one over the other one.
- short one pass the under of long one, and make ring.
- pull the long string through the ring of short string.
- when knot is completed, remain string's length is almost same.
- left hand hold long string, and right hand hold short string.
- cross the strings, short one over the other one.
- short one pass the under of long one, and make ring.
- pull the long string through the ring of short string.
- when knot is completed, remain string's length is almost same.
Men's Hanbok
Steps to wear men's Hanbok
1. wear the underwears. your own underpants.
2. wear the pants. see in the right picture. the focused line is left side. so you can find front of pants.
- place the sewing line on the inner ankle bone.
- hold that sewing line by left hand and then tighten the trouser cuff around of ankle
by right hand.
- remaining trouser cuff pass your achilles tendon and then tighten it.
- turned string twice around the ankle, and then make knot on the inner ankle bone.
- hold that sewing line by left hand and then tighten the trouser cuff around of ankle
by right hand.
- remaining trouser cuff pass your achilles tendon and then tighten it.
- turned string twice around the ankle, and then make knot on the inner ankle bone.
3. wear the top. men's hanbok have some difference with women's hanbok. the top of men's hanbok is thought to be underwear by korean ancestors. so men's waistcoat or coat is essential.
(By Ian)
Traditional Hanbok
“Hanbok” is the traditional attire of Korea. Its history dates back as far as the three kingdoms period (57 b.c. – a.d. 668). Koreans weaved cloth with hemp and arrowroot and raised silkworms to produce silik. It is divided largely into daywear and ceremonial wear, with differences between each age, gender and season.
A Hanbok is characterized by a two-piece outfit without pockets and buttons that is closed with strings, belts or cords. Men traditionally wore a “jeogori”(jacket), “baji”(trousers) and “durumagi”(overcoat) with a hat, belt and pair of shoes. The women wore a jeogori with two long ribbons tied to form an “otgoreum” (know), a full length, high-waist wrap-around skirt called “chima” and “beoseon”(white cotton socks), and boat-shaped shoes.
(By Ian)
Monday, 19 August 2013
The changing of hanfu
Hanfu as one of the traditional Chinese costume, force and its impact, which given China 's clothing and designer unlimited inspiration, many Chinese designers will put some han’s elements in their clothing. Because of their relatively large hanfu sleeve clothes, long, so it not easy to wear out, and many designers will be improved, which retains the essence part, joining with the characteristics of the modern aesthetic of clothing, such as the famous cover model Xin Yuan Zhang, she published a photo, a modified version of the Hanfu.
(By Echo)
Standard Style(hanfu)
Garments
The style of Han Chinese clothing can be summarized as containing garment elements that are arranged in distinctive and sometimes specific ways. This may be different from the traditional garment of other ethnic groups in China , most notably the Manchu-influenced Chinese clothes, the qipao, which is popularly assumed to be the solely recognizable style of "traditional" Chinese garb. A comparison of the two styles can be seen as the following provides:
Component
|
Han
|
Manchu
|
Upper Garment
|
Consist of "yi" (衣), which have loose lapels and are open
|
Consist of "pao" (袍), which have secured lapels around the neck and no front openings
|
Lower Garment
|
Consist of skirts called "chang" (裳)
|
Consist of pants or trousers called "ku" (褲)
|
Collars
|
Generally, diagonally crossing each other, with the left crossing over the right
|
Parallel vertical collars with parallel diagonal lapels, which overlap
|
Sleeves
|
Long and loose
|
Narrow and tight
|
Buttons
|
Sparingly used and concealed inside the garment
|
Numerous and prominently displayed
|
Fittings
|
Belts and sashes are used to close, secure, and fit the garments around the waist
|
Flat ornate buttoning systems are typically used to secure the collar and fit the garment around the neck and upper torso
|
(By Echo)
The Introduction of Hanfu/Han Chinese Clothing
In Evolution of Chinese Women’s Clothing, we mentioned how the popular Chinese traditional dress, qipao (旗袍 qípáo) or cheongsam, was in fact brought to China by Manchurians in the Qing Dynasty. Prior to the Manchu occupation, Chinese wore the traditional Han Chinese clothing, which was banned during Manchurian’s rule of China . Gradually, Han Chinese clothing disappeared and the qipao became the iconic Chinese traditional clothing. During the last decade, there has been a movement in China to revive traditional Han Chinese clothing and reintroduce it to modern life. What is Han Chinese clothing, or hanfu (汉服) anyway?
Cultural China gives a simple explanation:
“Hanfu, also known as Hanzhuang or Huafu, refers to the traditional dress of Han Chinese people before Qing dynasty. The term Hanfu derives from the Book of Han, which says, ‘then he (Qu Li) came to the Court many times to pay homage and was delighted at the clothing style of the Han. ‘ Here Han refers to Han Dynasty, but as a matter of fact Hanfu includes not only clothing in Han Dynasty but also in Shang, Zhou, Tang, Song and Ming.”
The article then breaks down the pieces of a typical Hanfu:
“Yi (衣): Any open cross-collar garment, and worn by both sexes
Pao (袍): Any closed full-body garment, worn only by men in Hanfu
Ru (襦): Open cross-collar shirt
Shan (衫): Open cross-collar shirt or jacket that is worn over the yi
Qun (裙) or chang (裳): Skirt for women and men Ku (裤): Trousers or pants
Pao (袍): Any closed full-body garment, worn only by men in Hanfu
Ru (襦): Open cross-collar shirt
Shan (衫): Open cross-collar shirt or jacket that is worn over the yi
Qun (裙) or chang (裳): Skirt for women and men Ku (裤): Trousers or pants
There are two parts overlapping on the front. This is called ‘Jiao Ling’ (Crossing Collar), which is a main feature of nearly all Asian costumes. The order of the two parts is quite important. From the wearer’s point of view, the crossing is always on his/her right side, which is called ‘You Ren’ (Right Front). Therefore an easy way to recognize Hanfu is that its collar forms a ‘y’ shape if you look at the dress from the front.
Hanfu usually has a waistband, on which various little decorations are hung, including Yu (jade) and Chinese knots. These hung decorations, together with the long ribbons and relatively wide sleeves, can sway as one walks. Its idea is to cover up any imperfections and to accentuate the bodily beauty of an East Asian woman.”
There are three basic makes of hanfu, 衣裳制, 深衣制, and 长衫制.
1. 衣裳制 (yīshang zhì), is separated into a top and a bottom piece of clothing.
For Males
For Females, 襦裙 rú qún
2. 深衣制 (shēn yī zhì), where the top and bottom are sewn together into a whole piece.
3. 长衫制 (chángshān zhì), where the top is extended into a long shirt.
直身 zhí shēn (male)
褙子 bèi zi (female)
披风 pīfēng (female)
圆领 yuán lǐng (male)
(By Echo)
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